EASTER IN SPAIN IS BIG: on Maunday Thursday, the small Catalan town of Verges held a nighttime spectacular (La Processó de Verges) with processions through town and an ancient play about Christ and Death that had been held every year since the Black Death (1358) decimated the town (and 25 million others). The thousands gathered was somber. Elsewhere across Spain Easter lively celebrations go until the very earlyhours. It is one of the remarkable charms of this country that it can respect an event in the 14th Century and participate at the cutting edge of technology at the same time.